Front closure for garments



April 4, 1967 c. E. GERBER 3,311,926

FRONT CLOSURE FOR GARMENTS Filed Oct. 29, 1964 2 Sheets-Sheet l INVENTOR. CURTIS E. GERBER I ATTORNEY April 4, 1967 c. E. GERBER 3,311,926

FRONT CLOSURE FOR GARMENTS Filed Oct. 29, 1964 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR. CURTIS E. GERBER ATTORNEY United States Patent 3,311,926 FRONT CLUSURE FOR GARMENTS Curtis E. Gerber, 1227 E. Irvington St., South Bend, Ind. 46614 Filed Oct. 29, 1964, Ser. No. 407,443 Claims. (Cl. 2--128) This invention relates to improvements in front closure for garments, and more particularly relates to front closures employing slide fasteners in garments such as shirts.

It is frequently desired to provide garments, such as uniform shirts, which are tailored to fit snugly upon the wearer. The snug fit of such a garment, provides a tailored, trim and attractive appearance of the garment at all times. Heretofore, certain disadvantages have existed which have held the use of such tailored close-fitting garments to a minimum, however. Included among such disadvantages have been inability to provide such garments with closures which present a smooth and flat effect. Thus it is common in shirts to utilize buttons as closures. However, since buttons are spaced apart substantial distances, garments which fit snugly and which utilize buttons for closures thereof have been subject to occurrence of gaps between the buttons, which detracts from the desired appearance of the garment as worn.

It is the primary object of this invention to overcome the aforementioned disadvantages and to provide a front closure for a garment with a box pleat which produces a continuous flat appearance when closed and which is also attractive in appearance when partially open, as at the collar of a shirt.

A further object is to provide a garment construction with a closure utilizing a slide fastener, wherein the garment is so constructed as to receive and mount the slide fastener in a manner to prevent contact of the slide fastener and of the pull element thereof with the body of the wearer or with other garments.

A further object is to provide a construction in which the slide fastener is completely shielded and wherein the edges of the tapes of slide fasteners and of covering fabrics in a garment are sewed in the seams of the garment.

A further object is to provide a garment construction which may be provided with buttons for decorative purposes, or without such buttons, and in both cases no adverse operation of the slide fastener occurs.

A further object is to provide a garment construction of this character which is economical to produce and in which the facing of a garment enclosing the tape of a slide fastener is formed and assembled during production of the garment to constitute a continuous part of the front of the garment.

Other objects will be apparent from the following specification.

In the drawing:

FIG. 1 is a front elevational view of a shirt having a front closure embodying my invention, the same being illustrated as partly open near the collar thereof;

FIG. 2 is an enlarged fragmentary detail sectional view illustrating the manner in which the slide fastener is associated with the parts of the garment at a shirt front.

FIG. 3 is an enlarged sectional view extending transversely of a slide fastener and illustrating the underfacing margin of a part of a shirt front;

FIG. 4 is an enlarged transverse sectional view illustrating the box pleat margin of a shirt front and a slide fastener element carried thereby and the manner in which a button may be sewn to the box pleat;

FIG. 5 is an enlarged sectional detail view of the box pleat marginal portion of a shirt front similar to FIG. 4,

3,311,926 Patented Apr. 4, 1967 but illustrating the mounting of a detachable ornamental button upon the box pleat;

FIG. 6 is an enlarged transverse sectional view illustrating a modified overfacing marginal structure; and FIG. 7 is an enlarged transverse sectional view illustrating a modified underfacing marginal structure.

Referring to the drawing, and particularly to FIGS. 1 to 4 which illustrate one embodiment of the invention, the numeral 10 designates a garment, such as a shirt, having two front panel parts 12 and 14 which are adapted to overlap and be interconnected by fastener means. The garment includes the usual sleeves 16 and collar 18.

The underlying marginal portion of the front panel 12 is preferably constructed as illustrated in FIG. 3, wherein the surface positioned lowermost is the outer or exposed surface. The fabric at the marginal portion of panel 12 is longitudinally inwardly return folded at part 20, thence is longitudinally inwardly return folded at part 22 to project a substantial distance beyond or to have substantial greater width than the intermediate return fold part 20. An outward return fold part 24 bears in face engagement with a fold part 22 and is of substantially the same width as fold part 22 and bears against the outer face of the fold part 22 with its free longitudinal edge portion interposed between the fold parts 20 and 22. A longitudinal line of stitching 26 passes through panel 12 and the fold parts 20, 22 and 24 preferably adjacent to the longitudinal fold between the panel part 12 and the fold part 20. If desired, a second line of stitching 28 may extend lengthwise of the parts 22 and 24 substantially parallel to stitching 26 and spaced therefrom and from the fold between the parts 22 and 24. One section of a slide fastener of any conventional character being provided with the usual tape 30 and grip element 32 is secured to the panel 12 for a selected part of the length of the margin thereof. Thus in a shirt such a fastener will extend substantially from the waist line to a point spaced slightly below the collar, as illustrated in FIG. 1. The fastener part will be assembled by passing the tape 30 thereof between the fold parts 20 and 24, as seen in FIG. 3, and will be retained by the line of stitching 26, with a slight portion only of the tape thereof projecting laterally from the fold between the panel part 12 and the return fold 20. The teeth or gripper elements 32 on the tape will be spaced from the fold between the parts 12 and 22 to a slight extent and will be substantially spaced from the free margin between the fold parts 22 and 24. Thus the teeth .or gripper elements 32 will be positioned to have sufficient freedom from the adjacent under facing 24 to facilitate engagement and release of the slide fastener without interference from the garment.

The marginal box pleat portion formed on the front panel part 14 to overlie the marginal underfacing portion on the panel 12 just described, is constructed as illustrated in FIG. 4. An outward return fold part 34 extends longitudinally in face engagement with the outer surface of panel 14 along its length, the same being comparatively narrow. A comparatively wide box pleat part 36 is outwardly return folded from the narrow fold part 34 and projects laterally a substantial distance from the fold between panel 14 and the fold part 34. An inwardly return fold part 38, of a width approximately equal to the Width of the box pleat part 36, underlies the latter and at its free margin is interposed between the latter and the narrow fold part 34. If desired a web 49 formed of canvas or other fabric may be interposed between the box pleat part 36 and the fold part 38. A line of stitching 42 may extend mid-width of the fold part 34 to join 3 pleat part 36, the return fold part 38 and the web 40. A slide fastener member complementary with that upon the panel part 12 of FIG. 3 and consisting of a tape portion 46 and teeth or gripper elements 48 carried by the tape at a longitudinal margin thereof, is arranged as illustrated in FIG. 4. Thus the tape 46 is interposed between the narrow fold part 34 and the return fold part 38 and is retained by the line of stitching 42 with a narrow part only of said tape projecting beyond the fold between panel 14 and fold part 34, and carrying the teeth or gripper elements 48.

The fastening means for the garment is completed by one or more buttons, such as a button 50 located at the collar and cooperating with a collar buttonhole 52. In some instances, as illustrated in FIG. 1, a second button 54 may be carried by the underfacing 24 between the collar button 50 and the uppermost end of the slide fastener parts 30, 32, and will be engageable in a buttonhole 56 formed in the box pleat portion. If desired, only the button 50 at the collar need be used, and, in such cases, the slide fastener will extend above the level illustrated in FIG. 1 to a point close to the collar. In instances where buttons are desired for decorative purposes, such as buttons 58 shown in FIG. 1 and FIG. 4, such buttons may be sewn by stitching 60 at spaced intervals along the length of the box pleat. In such cases as well seen in FIG. 4, the buttons will be sewn to the box pleat in laterally spaced relation to the slide fastener teeth 48.

In some instances where detachable ornamental buttons 62 are desired, the box pleat part may have openings 64 formed at spaced intervals spaced from the slide fastener 48 adapted to receive the central loop portions 66 of the buttons which are engaged by releasable button retainer springs 68, as seen in FIGS. 2 and 5.

The garment front closure construction is characterized by engagement of the cooperating slide fastener teeth 32, 38 upon movement of the usual slider 70 by means of the slider hand grip 72. The fastener provides for continuous closure of the garment beneath the box pleat to provide a smooth garment at the box pleat, which extends to the full extent of the slide fastener, which preferably will be for the major part of the length of the box pleat. The interengaged slide fasteners will be effectively concealed by the box pleat by virtue of the location thereof adjacent the inner margin of the box pleat and laterally inwardly relative to the buttons 58 or 62, if such buttons are used. Thus no part of the slide fastener is visible, and the garment when closed presents the same appearance as a conventional garment closed by buttons, without danger of the gap effect occuring between buttons, as would occur in a tight fitted buttonfastened garment.

One of the important considerations of this garment construction is that the fastener elements 32, 48 and the slider 70 and its hand grip 72 cannot come in contact with the wearers body or with undergarments, because of the location of the slide fastener elements inset from the free edges of both the underfacing 24 and the box pleat 38.

Another important consideration is the fact that substantially the only parts of the fastener which are visible when the garment is open are the fastener elements, the slider 70 and the hand grip; the major parts of the fastener tapes being covered by the folds of the garment defining the underfacing construction of FIG. 3 and the box pleat construction of FIG. 4. At the same time this arrangement is economical to produce because the slide fastener tapes can be assembled with the adjacent parts of the garment during the folding of the latter and can be anchored in place by the same stitches 26 and 32 required for formation of the underfacing and the box pleat, respectively.

The application of the invention is not limited to shirts having a box pleat simulation, but may be applied to sport shirts and dress shirts having so-called French fronts or plain face fronts. Thus the overfacing margin at one shirt panel 70 may include inwardly return folded part 72, narrow inwardly return folded part 74 and inner finish return folded panel 76. A stiffening strip 78 may be interposed between parts '70 and 72, and the tape 80 of one slide fastener section may be interposed between the parts 72 and 74 to position the gripper element 82 thereof in exposed position the gripper element 82 thereof in exposed position underlying the part 72 and spaced from the outer margin thereof. Stitching 84 passes through parts 70, 78, 72, S0, 74 and 76, to hold the parts assembled. Stitching 86 passes through parts 70, 78 and '72.

The underfacing is illustrated in FIG. 7 wherein the underlapping margin of the shirt front panel 90 has a narrow inwardly return folded panel 92, a wide infolded underfacing panel 94 and an inturned folded portion 96. Tape 98 of a fastener is interposed between the fold parts 92 and 94 at the front of the underfacing to interengage the gripper element 100 thereof with the gripper element 82 of the slide fastener carried by the overfacing. Stitching 102 passing through parts 90, 92, 98, 94 and 96 anchors the fastener at the time the underfacing is made, and a second line of stitching 104 may interconnect the parts 90 and 96.

This construction may include the mounting of buttons upon the overfacing, as previously described, and accomplishes the same advantages of providing a trim slide fastener anchored shirt front, as mentioned above.

While the preferred embodiments of the invention have been illustrated and described, it will be understood that changes in the construction may be made within the scope of the appended claims without departing from the spirit of the invention.

I claim:

1. A front closure for interconnecting front garment panels comprising a marginal underfacing on one garment panel and including a narrow inwardly return folded longitudinal part, and a wide inwardly return folded longitudinal part and a wide outwardly return folded longitudinal part stitched together,

a slide fastener member including a tape and gripper elements carried by one margin of said tape,

the major part of the width of said tape being interposed between said narrow inwardly return folded part and said wide outwardly return folded part and anchored by stitching of said last named parts whereby said gripper elements are spaced inwardly from the free edge of said underfacing,

a marginal box pleat simulation on the other garment panel and including a narrow outwardly return folded longitudinal part, a wide outwardly return folded longitudinal box pleat part and a wide inwardly return folded longitudinal part stitched together, and

a slide fastener member complementary to said first slide fastener member and including a tape and gripper elements carried by one margin of said tape,

the major part of the width of said last named tape being interposed between said narrow outwardly return folded part and said wide inwardly return folded part and anchored by stitching of said last named parts whereby said gripper elements are spaced inwardly from the free edge of said box pleat simulation.

2. A front closure for interconnecting front garment panels comprising a marginal underfacing on one fabric garment panel formed of multiple folded parts of said fabric stitched together,

a slide fastener including a tape and gripper elements carried by one margin of said tape,

the major portion of the width of said tape being interposed between folded parts of said underfacing and stitched thereto, whereby said gripper elements overlie said underfacing spaced from the free edge of said underfacing,

a marginal overfacing on the other fabric garment panel formed of multipie folded parts of said fabric 5 stitched together,

a slide fastener member complementary to said first fastener member and including a tape and gripper elements carried by one margin of said tape,

the major portion of the width of said last named tape being interposed between folded parts of said marginal overfacing and stitched thereto whereby said last named gripper elements underlie said marginal overfacing spaced from the free edge thereof.

3. The construction defined in claim 2, and buttons stitched to said marginal overfacing intermediate the width thereof and spaced from said gripper elements when the latter are interengaged.

4. The construction defined in claim 2, wherein said garment constitutes a shirt including a collar having a button and buttonhole,

said underfacing and marginal overfacing extending to said collar and said slide fasteners terminating spaced below said collar.

5. The construction defined in claim 2, wherein said garment constitutes a shirt including a collar having a button and buttonhole,

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 2,894,469 7/1959 Van Amburg et a1. 2234 X FOREIGN PATENTS 523,482 4/ 1956 Canada. 1,03 6,864 4/1953 France.

20 JORDAN FRANKLIN, Primary Examiner. R. J. SCANLAN, JR., Assistant Examiner. 

2. A FRONT CLOSURE FOR INTERCONNECTING FRONT GARMENT PANELS COMPRISING A MARGINAL UNDERFACING ON ONE FABRIC GARMENT PANEL FORMED OF MULTIPLE FOLDED PARTS OF SAID FABRIC STITCHED TOGETHER, A SLIDE FASTENER INCLUDING A TAPE AND GRIPPER ELEMENTS CARRIED BY ONE MARGIN OF SAID TAPE, THE MAJOR PORTION OF THE WIDTH OF SAID TAPE BEING INTERPOSED BETWEEN FOLDED PARTS OF SAID UNDERFACING AND STITCHED THERETO, WHEREBY SAID GRIPPER ELEMENTS OVERLIE SAID UNDERFACING SPACED FROM THE FREE EDGE OF SAID UNDERFACING, 